Day 9: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar to Gorak Shep

We set off early for Gorak Shep, the highest camping site for our trip, as we had heard that accomodation was hard to get. Unfortunately it seems that we were not the only ones to think of this and along the way we must have passed over 100 trekkers, Sherpa's and porters. We followed the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier all the way up the valley.  We were  pretty fast and got into Gorak Shep before most but still had some difficulty securing accomodation (which we eventually managed for 300/- per night).

Gorak Shep is the last town before Everest Base Camp and is located right at the foot of Kala Pattar. There are perhaps 7 buildings in the town all together and one gets a sense that no one wants to be here for too long.

We got in around 10am and made plans to head up Kala Pattar (5550m) for what would probably be our best views of Everest. Before heading off we sat up on the helicopter pad that over looked the town and Khumbu Glacier and had a nice relaxing time. We saw some beautiful native fowl which were not afraid of us at all and also got an amazing view of an avalanche some 5km away.

After lunch we started off for Kala Pattar and I must say that it was one of the hardest treks we have done so far. The heavy snow fall had left the path covered with ice and snow and there were several times where we slipped and nearly fell. After a very difficult almost 2 hour trek we reached the top, marked by a huge assortment of Buddhist prayer flags, and what an amazing view we had!

The sky was cloudless and blue and Everest could be seen in all her ugly glory. We were treated to views over the back of Kala Pattar of blue glacial lakes and pristine snowy mountains. We witnessed a massive avalanche down the face of Nuptse and were kept company by some native birds that were so fearless they were almost eating out of our hands. Ama Dablam stood strong and high way off in the distance, it was amazing to think that only 2 days ago we had been standing at its base. The view of the Khumbu Glacier was like no other and we were in awe of its brutal power, pushing aside mountains to get where it wanted to go.

We stayed up on the mountain for the sunset where we were treated to an amazing view. Everest and the surrounding mountains slowly went from brilliant white to an amazing orange as the sky changed from blue to purple to grey. Clouds crept up the valley way below us and the entire view was just incredible. The temperature dropped suddenly below freezing and as we made our way down by the light of our head torches over slippery ice and snow we couldn't help but be amazed at what we had seen.

When we arrived back to Gorak Shep we were covered with ice and as we entered exhausted into our room we realised that it would give us no comfort as temperatures inside were close to -10 degrees.

Day 5: Tengboche

Oh man... Where to begin. Tengboche... Possibly the most beautiful place in Nepal. What an amazing experience. The day started with a 6am service in the Tengboche Monastery which involved a half dozen monks chanting while incense burned in a room where the paintings on the wall were the pure definition of intricate.

We left the monastery and then headed up a hill behind the town to a small chorten (like a stupa) riddled with prayer flags, the walk up was about 30 minutes through rhododendrons and wild flowers. Saw our first deer which, though it was quite far off, was still exciting. We reached the chorten feeling pretty good and then saw that there was another chorten on the snow line up what can only be described as a mountain. We figured we would try getting up there though there was no clear path and were still in our pyjamas and sandals (not exactly snow gear).

The walk up was a hard slog for almost 2 hours following rock cairns but totally worth it as the view was indescribable. We were in an amphitheatre of snowy mountains & ice falls and only when we saw a helicopter fly up the valley at an altitude far lower than us did we realise how truly high we were. We got some amazing photos and made sure to take a good moment up there before we began the decent.

Half way down I was just overwhelmed by the beauty of the place and sat down on a grassy patch filled with wild flowers and just took it all in for almost 2 hours. The beauty of creation astounds and overwhelms.

Got back down to our accomodation and then we learned how crazy things but had gotten further up the valley. During the rain we had on day 1 & 2 heavy snow had fallen and cut off the path to Everest Base Camp. Dozens of avalanches were recorded up and down the valley and we heard unconfirmed reports that three people had died. Heaps of people were choppered out. Even in Tengboche things got busy as dozens were headed down the hill as the weather is a bit unpredictable at the moment. Some poor soul was even evacuated by chopper fight before our eyes here in Tengboche today (for Altitude Sickness).

As a result we now feel that we need to re-evaluate our plans and probably drop at least one of our passes (at this stage we are thinking to drop the Kongma La as that is where the heaviest snow fell). We want to be safe and do not plan on taking any additional risks. Everest Base Camp has opened up again and so we will head there first then we will work our way towards the Cho La Pass (we will have to carefully evaluate the weather conditions before attempting this pass as it too can be quite dangerous).

Clouds rolled in around mid-afternoon blocking out everything but by 8pm they lifted and we were left with an incredible starry sky that had to be seen to be believed. We got out the tripod and took a bunch of incredible photos (have to wait till I get home till I can upload them though).

During the day we met a couple from England who were travelling with a Canadian guy and decided that we will team up with them for most of our walk tomorrow. There will come a point where they will split right and head to Dingboche while we head left to Pheriche but at least we will have company for a few hours.

Day 4: Namchee Bazaar to Tengboche

Woke up to the sound of no rain on our roof. Opened our window and there were blue skies all around -not a cloud in the sky. We quickly packed our bags, downed a quick breakfast and headed off for our next destination, Tengboche.

The walk was amazing, beautiful valleys... snowy peaks all around us glistening in the morning sun and then suddenly there she was... Mt Everest... "The ugly sister in a room full of beautiful women" as she was once described. The tallest mountain in the world paled before Ama Dablam with her sharp walls and incredible structure. Lhotse was also standing out and looking extremely impressive with her pointy peak. I just had to sit down for a moment... Take it all in. Wow.

Stopped again for a brief moment at a stream to fill our drink bottles before continuing downward. As we walked on the mountains came closer and closer till it almost felt like we could reach out and touch them. The trek led us to Sanasa then on to Phungi Thanga where we stopped for a quick bowl of noodles before the long ascent to Tengboche. We crossed another amazing bridge where we had to wait for yet another set of yaks and then almost immediately the ascent began.

Two solid hours of up hill trekking brought us to the beautiful town of Tengboche with its open green pastures and incredible views. We headed straight to the local monastery (or Goomba) mistaking it for a hotel (to which a little monk kindly explained it wasnt). Tried another place but they were already full and then on our third attempt we got a double room at 200 rupees a night (AUD$2.10). Score!

We dropped our bags in our room and then raced outside as clouds were beginning to set in and we wanted to get some good photos. Headed back to the monastery and got a few snaps of everything around it, took some pics of a yak then headed inside to get some lunch and get warm.